My New Lao Friends

Today I actually got away from all the tourists just by hopping on a boat to cross the Mekong. Just 5 minutes later I was walking alone through a pretty little town, visiting temples and smiling and waving at all the little kids and women doing laundry, cooking, and sitting around chatting. It is amazing to me how people from all over the world spend Sundays doing very similar activities - housework, family time, watching TV, working on the house ... though the houses here are a bit smaller and not filled with nearly as much stuff as those in the Western World.
I continued on down a pretty little trail, just going "a little farther" and "a little farther" to see what was next. Until just when I thought the trail had ended, about half hour later, I came upon a pretty wat (temple) and a group of Lao youth sitting on a rattan mat, having a picnic. They smiled at me, and I smiled back. (All the stereotypes of Lao people being very sweet, quiet, friendly, open, smiley and just plain nice are 100% true.) This little group invited me to come and sit with them. So I did. And for the next few hours we ended up half-talking/signing, laughing, munching on nuts and chips together. The four girls were 18 and 19 and attend university at a school just outside Luang Prabang, and the one boy - a "pretty-boy" with his hair and nails done, pretty jewelry and make-up - which I found interesting - was a 17-yr old student. Only one girl actually spoke any English, limited to about 5 phrases. But the ironic thing was that they were all studying English and soon pulled out their books to try to communicate with me more. I ended up helping them with their homework, too!

We sat and communicated and shared, then visited a Buddhist temple nearby and prayed - a rather quick duck-in-pray-and-leave affair. Then went for a hike up to another temple with a cool Buddha statue sitting in a 7-headed snake. I actually thought we were heading back a different way and was quite confused about where they were leading me on a trail with all manner of bushes jumping out at me. So I was pleasantly surprised when we reached the top of a big hill, sweating under the hot sun, and could see the mekong all around and this pretty little abandoned temple in the middle of a green algae pond. We sat again for a bit, as my stomach started growling after 5 hours hiking and sitting in the heat with only a mango shake and a few chips. So, we decided to leave and get some food. Well, I wasnt sure where they were leading me or if they understood that I was starving (they had actually just finished the picnic when I arrived earlier.) but I followed the group as we trekked back down to the other temple, then down to the river-side and along the sandy side past farms and fishermen, until finally arriving at a little hut with tables, a huge speaker system, blasting Lao pop music, and FOOD! I was so happy. They served me watered-down tea, which I hoped was made with good water or at least boiled, then this strange cucumber-chili-fishy stuff, then spicy ramen noodles with asian spinach. And my meal was completed with a couple young guys from the table next to us (this apparently is a big hang-out for Sunday picnicking students) brought 3 skewers with veggies and grilled water-buffalo meat which they gave me in exchange for a photo of me with a young dude with a huge smile on his face. (If you want a sweaty, tired and hungry-looking girl smiling in the photo - I don't mind posing!)
We finished our meal and I payed for everyone ... 25000 kip - about $3 dollars. incredible.
Then we got on a little dug-out wooden boat and headed back across the mekong to their town, next to Luang Prabang. I followed them on a little trail leading to their "apartment," which they invited me to see. I have to preface this with saying that they were all dressed cute, wearing jeans, shirts and jackets - yes, long-sleeved jackets in the sweltering heat! - and had nice cell phones which they played American music from. They are all from other provinces in other areas of Laos, and have come here just to go to university. I assumed they shared an apt or dorm of some sort, imagining something similar to the US.

This is where the culture shock hits.

I walk into a tiny room with a raised platform running across half with rattan mats laid-out. clothes are hanging on a string across one side, there is a wok and some dishes in another corner, and a couple suitcases and books in the remaining side. The room is about 10 square feet. And 6 girls share it. SIX. Living, sleeping, eating, studying, hanging out talking ... together for 5 years. I couldn't believe it. My things alone, all packed up, would fill the place. And these girls have come with one suitcase to live and study for 5 years. Amazing. And they shared their snacks and day with me without even thinking about it! I was really touched by that.

After relaxing in their apartment, sitting on the bed area - really like a raised floor - we talked and laughed some more, then bid farewell and I caught a tuk-tuk back to Luang Prabang. I wish I could have given them more or helped them out, but I didn't have anything with me to give, and they don't have email or contact info. Hopefully I made their day even half as memorable as they made mine.