Village Children

PS - I hate internet connections! ... sorry about the no photos! I am trying again.

I had the most amazing trip to a town untouched by money, consumer goods, vehicles, stress, traffic, pollution, greed, and all the other negative things we encounter in everyday life. (Granted, they also didn't have all the nice "creature comforts" we have come to depend on ... like a comfy bed and pillows, chocolate, milk and cookies, TV, internet, phones ... )

Later I will write more about my life-changing experience stepping back 100 years to a small subsistance farming community ... but for now share some photos of the kids. So happy, playing and laughing, going to school in their little village, eating with extended families, playing without fear, sharing with all the other kids, in one big happy "family."

(They still werent used to photos, so didnt smile much, but you can see how beautiful they were!)

The simple life

I just might move to Laos. It is so beautiful here, with miles and miles of green jungle, rolling hills, winding cool rivers and hot sunshine. And life is simple - the biggest city is barely 1 million, and there are less people per square mile than any other Asian country. Most people live in small villages in wooden huts with thatched roofs. They eat sticky rice, veggies they grow, a spicy, gingery minced meat dish, and lots of fresh fruit. They smile a lot, talk softly, never wear shoes indoors, have parties to celebrate everything - even the anniversary of a death - and relax. It is a nice life. Simple. ... okay, perhaps a bit too simple and rural for me, I should admit!

I just got back to "civilization" after about 4 days traveling by boat up a small river - the Nam Ou - in NE Laos, staying in small villages. To give you an idea of what I mean by "small village" - it's important to mention that these towns ONLY had electricity from 6-9pm at night! I am not sure if you understand what not having electricity throughout the day and night means.... In the entire town (not camping, but town where people live all the time!), there are no lights - in a dark bathroom at 5pm, midnight, or noon, there is no radio or music, no TV (which I personally dont mind), no hot water from the hot water heater - only shower from 6-9!, no blender for making shakes (fruit shakes are a popular tourist drink here!), no electricity for cooking ... only old-fashioned fire! None for restaurants or stores ... it is crazy. So, that is life in a small town here. Some small towns do have non-stop electricity, but it is a luxury that we take for granted in the West, that is really not so common around the world.

So, my trip started with a 4 hour bus ride with my new friend Helena, a nice girl from Italy via England, then we arrived at Nong Kieu, a little village on the banks of the Nam Ou river, surrounded by hilly, green jungle. We had a nice nap in the shade of our little bungalows overlooking the river. Then we went for a hike and swim in our own private beach on the riverbank! beautiful! And ended the night with a delicious dinner with some fun British people we met at the bungalows.
The next day we took a boat 1 hour up to the next town - Mong Kiuow. This little village is accessible only by boat, set above the river, amid stunning high hills and cliffs covered with green jungle. We explored the town - with one main street, a pretty temple, and a few little outdoor restaurants for the tourists. It takes 10 minutes to walk from end of town to the other! And we found another, nicer private beach on the river to sunbathe and swim. I did a couple widths of the river to get some exercise. That evening we had a candle-lit dinner and saw the celebration of a new house - all the villagers were getting drunk on Lao Lao - a local rice wine that tastes rather like vodka.
The next day we did a little more adventurous hike. After about an hour walk inland, we passed by beautiful green rice paddies with water buffalo grazing and came to another tiny village with wood and thatched roof buildings. We found the only "restaurant" in town, an open-air cafe with simple tables. We had to laugh when we ordered from the menu - they only had about 20% of the items listed, and still my "vegetable soup" was noodle soup with not one veggie - just some lemongrass! And Helena's "veggies with noodles" were noodles with some cabbage! That evening we encountered the same food shortages back in the main village - only cabbage for veggies, no meat, plenty of rice, and only bananas for fruit! that's the other side of the simple life - you eat only what is currently growing and in-season.

That evening we had dinner and Lao Beer with a big group of "single" travelers - 9 of us in total, all traveling alone! - we met in the town. It was fun to talk to people from South Africa, Scotland, Australia, England, Switzerland and Spain! Pretty big mix, all in a tiny village in Northeastern Laos. crazy.

And then we grouped together 7 to share a boat 4 hours upriver, an exciting ride through small rapids on a long, low, wooden boat, stopping at other villages to pick up locals along the way. And had another flashlight night in a bigger town that also had limited electricity.

And today we took 2 buses for a total of 7 hours to Luang Namtha, in the NW corner of the country. Tomorrow Helena and I will do a 2-day trekking trip in the jungle here!

My New Lao Friends

Today I actually got away from all the tourists just by hopping on a boat to cross the Mekong. Just 5 minutes later I was walking alone through a pretty little town, visiting temples and smiling and waving at all the little kids and women doing laundry, cooking, and sitting around chatting. It is amazing to me how people from all over the world spend Sundays doing very similar activities - housework, family time, watching TV, working on the house ... though the houses here are a bit smaller and not filled with nearly as much stuff as those in the Western World.
I continued on down a pretty little trail, just going "a little farther" and "a little farther" to see what was next. Until just when I thought the trail had ended, about half hour later, I came upon a pretty wat (temple) and a group of Lao youth sitting on a rattan mat, having a picnic. They smiled at me, and I smiled back. (All the stereotypes of Lao people being very sweet, quiet, friendly, open, smiley and just plain nice are 100% true.) This little group invited me to come and sit with them. So I did. And for the next few hours we ended up half-talking/signing, laughing, munching on nuts and chips together. The four girls were 18 and 19 and attend university at a school just outside Luang Prabang, and the one boy - a "pretty-boy" with his hair and nails done, pretty jewelry and make-up - which I found interesting - was a 17-yr old student. Only one girl actually spoke any English, limited to about 5 phrases. But the ironic thing was that they were all studying English and soon pulled out their books to try to communicate with me more. I ended up helping them with their homework, too!

We sat and communicated and shared, then visited a Buddhist temple nearby and prayed - a rather quick duck-in-pray-and-leave affair. Then went for a hike up to another temple with a cool Buddha statue sitting in a 7-headed snake. I actually thought we were heading back a different way and was quite confused about where they were leading me on a trail with all manner of bushes jumping out at me. So I was pleasantly surprised when we reached the top of a big hill, sweating under the hot sun, and could see the mekong all around and this pretty little abandoned temple in the middle of a green algae pond. We sat again for a bit, as my stomach started growling after 5 hours hiking and sitting in the heat with only a mango shake and a few chips. So, we decided to leave and get some food. Well, I wasnt sure where they were leading me or if they understood that I was starving (they had actually just finished the picnic when I arrived earlier.) but I followed the group as we trekked back down to the other temple, then down to the river-side and along the sandy side past farms and fishermen, until finally arriving at a little hut with tables, a huge speaker system, blasting Lao pop music, and FOOD! I was so happy. They served me watered-down tea, which I hoped was made with good water or at least boiled, then this strange cucumber-chili-fishy stuff, then spicy ramen noodles with asian spinach. And my meal was completed with a couple young guys from the table next to us (this apparently is a big hang-out for Sunday picnicking students) brought 3 skewers with veggies and grilled water-buffalo meat which they gave me in exchange for a photo of me with a young dude with a huge smile on his face. (If you want a sweaty, tired and hungry-looking girl smiling in the photo - I don't mind posing!)
We finished our meal and I payed for everyone ... 25000 kip - about $3 dollars. incredible.
Then we got on a little dug-out wooden boat and headed back across the mekong to their town, next to Luang Prabang. I followed them on a little trail leading to their "apartment," which they invited me to see. I have to preface this with saying that they were all dressed cute, wearing jeans, shirts and jackets - yes, long-sleeved jackets in the sweltering heat! - and had nice cell phones which they played American music from. They are all from other provinces in other areas of Laos, and have come here just to go to university. I assumed they shared an apt or dorm of some sort, imagining something similar to the US.

This is where the culture shock hits.

I walk into a tiny room with a raised platform running across half with rattan mats laid-out. clothes are hanging on a string across one side, there is a wok and some dishes in another corner, and a couple suitcases and books in the remaining side. The room is about 10 square feet. And 6 girls share it. SIX. Living, sleeping, eating, studying, hanging out talking ... together for 5 years. I couldn't believe it. My things alone, all packed up, would fill the place. And these girls have come with one suitcase to live and study for 5 years. Amazing. And they shared their snacks and day with me without even thinking about it! I was really touched by that.

After relaxing in their apartment, sitting on the bed area - really like a raised floor - we talked and laughed some more, then bid farewell and I caught a tuk-tuk back to Luang Prabang. I wish I could have given them more or helped them out, but I didn't have anything with me to give, and they don't have email or contact info. Hopefully I made their day even half as memorable as they made mine.

Traveling "alone"

Just a quick blog about the misnomer of "traveling alone" ... when traveling in this part of the world, it just doesnt exist. For starters, there are hundreds of other travelers around at all times, unless one gets really far out into the wilderness ... and then you have all the locals that always prefer to talk to lone travelers, especially female travelers, than groups of people. And then there is the fact that people here (locals and tourists alike) are all so dang friendly, making it impossible not to meet people and easy to make friends. On my little trip "alone," I have met people from all over the world, from Europe to South America, Australia to Asia. It is fascinating.
In Cambodia I met a great, fun couple from Buenos Aires, Argentina, who I toured with for nearly 3 days, then I met a nice German guy traveling with his father - we shared beer (of course!) and dinner one evening, then I met a group of cool people on another boat, including a German woman also traveling alone (an ex-P&G-er to boot!), two Chileans, a Chilean and German couple. We all found rooms in the same hotel and had a fun evening of dinner and drinks. Then I spent another nice dinner with the Chileans the next night, purely by chance! And after the American group tour, I have had the same experience.

When traveling here it is common to book small trips of 2-3 days to see different sights. These group trips are great for meeting other travelers, as you are thrown into a group of people - could be fun or not - but you are stuck with them for the duration of the trip. I did a 3 day Halong Bay boat trip and was with a group of Irish, Australian (Melbourne), Canadian, Danish, German people. I really hit it off with the older Canadian couple - reminded me of my parents in a cool, used-to-be-hippie and traveled all over Latin America in a VW van sort-of way. We had some great conversations about traveling, Vietnam, history, culture and life in general.
Then on my trip to Sapa, in the north of Vietnam, where the landscape is covered with big green hills cut into rice terraces, dotted with small hilltribe villages and huts. The area is teeming with tourists and tribes-people trying to sell you things, which I found a little frustrating when trying to enjoy the beautiful scenery and quiet. (Vietnam is not a place to "get away from it all" in general, I have decided.) There I was put into a trekking group with a sweet Colombian girl and 2 Aussies - from the "Gold Coast" - natural medicine/yoga hippie-types who liked to have a good time. (So far, I am convinced ALL Australians are big drinkers.) And we happened to share our home stay with another small group consisting of 2 young guys from Boston/east coast who reminded me very much of my step-brother Chris at their age (25). They were fun, really into climbing and outdoors activities, as well as partying and showing off. And the last couple was an older American couple from Seattle - nice, retired, into roughing it traveling.
I ended up spending the next couple days with the four guys, as the Colombian returned to Hanoi and the older couple did their thing. We had a good time ... with lots of beer - hanoi beer!

And, on the plane to Laos I met Amanda, a fellow single woman traveler from Australia, then met a nice couple on my waterfall trip from Australia also, and another from Sweden, and finally people from Hungary on the kayak trip. And at dinner last night a couple fun guys from Australia (Adelaide - quite a different side of Australia), and finally a Scotch-Irish-Mr. Bean-look-alike. probably the funniest character of all, so far!

I hope everyone can experience traveling "alone" at some point in their lives. It has been a highlight of my trip. I don't think I would have met or had interesting conversations with half the people had I been with others. (though of course, friends you are welcome to join the adventure!)

Lovely Laos

Okay, so I am sure I have lost all my readership ... not even sure if I should keep writing, but I guess I will post just to share some stories.

I am now in Laos. and I LOVE it. the NY Times rated Laos the number one tour destination in the world, and so far, out of Asia, it is my favorite. it is so beautiful, full of amazing nature, with no crouds, pleasant, quiet people ... perhaps coming from Vietnam it is extra special and calm. I have only been here 2 full days and already want to stay 3-4 weeks!

I decided to take a 1.5 hr flight from Hanoi instead of a 30 hour bus ride. The flight had the added benefit of a visa-on-arrival option at the airport. It is crazy having to think about visas to travel places. I have had to get visas for Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, and will need one for China as well. For Cambodia and Laos, you can get them on-the-spot at the border, which is nice. And this time I forgot my passport-sized photo, but luckily they accepted US$1 instead. You can pay people for just about anything in this world!
On the plane I met a nice girl named Amanda, from Australia, also traveling alone. We hit it off, as we were sat next to each other, and she let me hitch a ride with her taxi to the hotel she had pre-booked. or rather "guest house" - as virtually all hotels in Luang Prabang are really people's homes! We were both over-joyed at the quiet peacefullness of the town, a pleasant shock coming from loud, crazy, busy hanoi. Here no one bothers you to sell you rides or postcards or trinkets. No one honks. No one shouts or talks overly-loudly. Buddhist monks roam everwhere and there are more temples than big hotels. The town is on the banks of the mekong, with pretty, candle-lit restuarants overlooking the river from the level of the town about 20 meters above the water.

My first day I slept in, found another guest house to move to closer to everything in the old town, though really nothing is more than a 5 minute walk in this tiny town! Then I had a lovely breakfast of fresh fruit with yogurt and meusli at a restuarant overlooking the mekong. then I happened to pass by a little mini-bus stop offering trips to the waterfall nearby. I booked an 11:30am trip. The waterfall turned out to be amazing, peaceful, with just a handfull of tourists, compared to the crouds everywhere in Vietnam. They also had a black bear sanctuary, so I spent a bit watching the bears play and splash-around in their real live jungle-gym. then hiked up to the top of a beautiful, jungle waterfall, about 50 meters up (? have to admit, I am REALLY bad with guessing distances!). the climb was tricky, on steep, dried-mud going vertically up. the view from the top was nice, and I was able to wade across the top of the fall to come down the other side! then I went swimming in the most beatiful natural blue pools after the bottom of the falls. (I have attempted to upload fotos for you to see!)

And then the next day, today, I went kayaking and swimming on a beatiful river flowing into the mekong. We floated and paddled along - just me and the guide and two other couples, from Australia and Hungary. We didn't see any other tourists! the scenery is beatiful, with big hills covered in green, fields planted, the occasional water buffalo or fisherman, big limestone cliffs.
Then we visited a cave with 1000 buddhas ... mostly small ones! Then we kayaked some more, had some home-made rice "whiskey" - very strong! - and headed back to town. This evening I enjoyed a nap, a massage for $4, delicious dinner for $2 and some emailing!!!

Signing off from Laos!

N Vietnam

I am off on my own again. The US tour group left me and I am back to solo and budget travel! Well, sort-of. I have to say this "traveling alone" is really just a joke. Perhaps it is because I am social and like meeting people, or maybe it is because everyone is very friendly when traveling, but I have to say that I rarely find myself alone. I found a nice little hotel in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, for US$14 a night! Here I booked two trips - a 3 day boat trip to Halong Bay and a 3 day trekking trip up to Sapa, the hills and terraced rice fields in Northern Vietnam.

I just returned from the trip to Halong Bay - it was really nice. The first day we left early in the morning - 8am, had a 3 hour bus ride to the bay, then boarded a boat where we had another feast of a meal - with fish, squid salad, bok choy, spring rolls, french fries, pork with veggies in sauce, rice and soup. I have been having similar HUGE meals this whole time with the tour group. Luckily the food is more-or-less healthy because I am eating a lot of it! Then we sailed to a cave - called the "amazing cave" - a really big limestone cave that reminded me of a star-wars movie. They have developed it for tourism, with a nice pathway and lights all around. The highlight of the cave is a large phallic-shaped rock sticking out, pointing to a hole in the ceiling! so funny.

This culture seems so discreet and serious and not sexual or emotional at all on the surface ... but I am learning that there is a lot underneath the smooth veneer. Men do check women out all the time, they just dont say anything (like in Latin America) and dont let you see them looking - it is all very discreet. I have been startled a time or two with little comments I hear or looks I accidentally see. For example, in one nice hotel I stayed in I was asking the councierge - a shy, young 20-something guy for help with directions on a map. Suddenly I hear him murmur "very beautiful" under his breath. I just looked at him in disbelief as he shyly smiled and looked down.

I have to say, after living in over-bearing Mexico, this culture is so pleasantly appealing. Whereas in Mexico things are intense, emotional, spicy and loud, here things are petite, tea is drunk slowly in tiny little cups, flirting is done quietly and discreetly, and you rarely see people getting really angry. The traditional music is melodic and soft. Though the people do sound loud when talking to one another. It is crazy being surrounded by sounds that I dont understand all the time. I miss understanding what is going on around me. Though I am glad I had time in Mexico to learn how to live with uncertainty. I am never quite sure what is happening here!

anyway, back to my Halong Bay trip ... so, after the cave, which I had actually already seen on an earlier trip to the bay with the tour group. (I liked it so much I deceded to come back on a longer trip.) We then had time to kayak around the bay a bit. I went with a nice Spanish woman I met - also traveling alone. We had a nice discussion (in Spanish, of course!) about life and working and relationships and traveling and such. I got to know the group on my boat over the next couple days - a few australians, a couple from Belgium, 2 british boys, an irish couple, a Canadian couple, a german guy and a danish girl! Quite the mix! It has been like living at the United Nations traveling here. It is just amazing. People are all so friendly and open, which is nice.

That evening we spent the night on the boat, under the stars with big Limestone rock islands and other wooden "junks" all around us. (The type of boat is called a Junk.)
The next morning we had breakfast on board, then sailed to a different part of the bay. Those of us staying another day transfered boats - yes, in the middle of the ocean bay. You have to have good balance to travel around here, as the boat trip involved trapsing over many small planks, up and down rickety stairs and climbing from boat to boat. The water wasnt very deep in the bay, though, so I imagine nothing much would happen if you fell overboard. but luckily, I did not.

Day 2 involved a bike ride on the island, then big lunch on a floating fishing hut, then kayaking around the bay - this time I went with the german guy. it was so lovely and peaceful, rowing around the islands, seeing caves, rocks and beaches. then we parked and had time to swim, but the water was a bit cold and shallow, so I just waded around the little island. Then we headed to the island town on Kat Ba island. it was so pretty there. we had a nice hotel and I had my own room with a nice view of the bay. and I went for a long walk around this beautiful walkway they had made from one beach to another around the island cliffs. And there I met 3 young hippie-chic girls from Spain, so we chatted a bit (in spanish - it is just amazing I am getting in so much practice!) and walked back to town together. Then had dinner with my boat group and went for a drink in a little bar with the Irish, Australian and German people. The next morning we boarded the boat and sailed home - of course with meals on the way!

Now I am waiting for my overnight train to Sapa ... write more soon!